Collection Review

Alexandre Herchcovitch, Brazilian superstar designer and innovative artist, has once again presented his spring-summer line. Although he is known for portraying uncommon aesthetics, often influenced by domestic affairs, his latest collection was a real shock - something you wouldn’t expect from Alexandre.

This season, a dark color palette dresses vanguard designs while a interesting mixture of body types presents Herchcovitch new spring looks. Gothic make-up and an even spookier vibe are the main characteristics of an impressive menswear line which doesn’t reassemble any of Alexandre’s women’s collection. Shorts, skin tight pants, and feather necklaces compose a line which seems more of a creation made by a Belgian Galliano.

The shoes are another important piece of his new line since they are quite avant-garde in the sense that they aren’t just crazy looking sandals. They either have a very round toe which makes them look more of a half-made shoe, an usual sole or they are a kind of a Raf Simons’ spring eccentric sandal, but obviously darker.

I also believe that Alexandre’s latest work evokes the combination between light fabrics and “heavy” looks. Meaning that many of the spring runway outfits seemed too complicated and dense to wear even though they were mostly made out of light and comfortable fabrics. And that leads me to my final conclusion regarding Herchcovitch’s work: everything is about looking “layered” without having too many layers on.

His name is Richard Söderberg. He is a talented young designer from Sweden whose label is called Obscure. He designs finely crafted pieces using a simple dark color palette and tons of creativity.

What have you been up to recently?

Well, I've been sowing my new collection and hooking up with my factory. Also I’m moving on Saturday, so I have much to do.

Working hard I see. Where are you moving?

I’m moving to Stockholm.

Splendid, where are you currently based? Are you actually working on the spring 08 line or have you begin doing some of the fall pieces?

I’m based in Helsingborg, a little city in southern Sweden. I recently finished SS, so I’m having a break.

A very deserved one I presume.

Actually, the SS collection wasn't that hard work. It's mostly random pieces I've put together into a collection. AW08 is going to be much more serious.

More profound, meaning that it will be expose a complex ideology, or more serious regarding the technical construction?

Well, I have tried to work towards something a bit more wearable. I'm putting more effort into every garment and at the same time trying to see the whole. I mostly make dark clothes but I don't strengthen the image of darkness with my styling (at least I'm trying not to). And whenever I make a light collection I try to make it more dark through precise style changes. The technical construction is always in development. I feel I'm in constant development and the more I work with different fabrics the more I get to know them and can use their full potential.

So you'll stop doing some of the very avant-garde stuff?

No, I’m trying to mix the avant-garde with wearable. Or that is what I will try and search for. The SS collection wasn’t very avant-garde, at all, but when I have more time and more effort to put into the collection, that is my goal.

And that's the key for successful line I believe. Are you afraid that someone might criticize you for doing a more approachable collection? Meaning that some may say that you will be becoming more commercial.

Indeed. As long as I am pleased with a collection, I never mind.

What happened to your first label "Macabre"? Why did you start doing Obscur?

Macabre and Obscur are the same thing. I just decided to stop using the name "Macabre" because it's just too "hard". It means death in all kinds of ways; so it feels kind of harsh, doesn't it?

Exactly. And how do you deal with the fact that many people compare you with Ann Demeulemeester?

I get that. I am very influenced by Ann d, Number 9, Rick Owens and so, but I try to keep an individual spirit.

You are doing an amazing job so far

Thank you very much

Which are the most iconic pieces that you currently offer?

The leather jacket , boots and zip-up neck. I like the raw-ness of zippers a lot, when used correctly.

Oh the long boots right those are going to be HUGE in a few months time

However, that might very well change for my coming collection haha

Would you ever consider designing other jeans than the skinny ones?

Of course. As I said this collection wasn’t super-serious. Therefore I didn't had the time nor energy to make more pants. The focus was kind of off pants. I don't think I will ever produce the typical blue-jeans, but who knows really. The jeans I like right now is a bit low crotch, baggy loose material . I love working with natural fabrics because they age and get their own personality.

I see. What things are going to change next season? Will start doing a full accessories line any time soon?

The next season will be more dressed; I try to make more and more accessories and i realize the importance of such…There will be a lot of blazers and trench coats. I'm going to try and add the rawness I’m talking about.

Excellent; so no printed t-shirts haha

haha maybe for stores but not official.

Well, I want to see the fall sketches as soon as you have any.

I’m also going to try and create more technical garments, for shows

So you will be doing more artsy runway shows or not?

Runway shows takes ALOT of work and right now I’m on my own. so not yet

Where is your market mainly located at?

Do you mean where I sell or where I’m aiming at?

Both

I'm not selling anywhere at the moment because I recently got my factory working, and I didn't want to sell "home-made" stuff. The aim is Japan, Europe eastern US, mainly small specialized stores. More exactly, do I think it will take time for me to have the ECONOMY to set up a good design team? The answer is yes, much time.

For more information and availability, go to http://www.obscur.se

or search within Frillr.com for previous entries about Obscur.

Japan has been offering lately some amazing designers. One of them is Taomaki Okaniwa, creative mind behind growing label “The Viridi-anne”. His designs are currently being sold all over world, but he remains relatively unknown. And that’s something I feel oblige to change.

His fall winter line is based on male sophistication as well as on a brilliant craftwork. His work is full of luxe and effortless charm; the finely tailored sweaters, the tall equestrian boots, and the splendid slim pants constitute a stunning collection of wearable high-end items. The boots are not exactly equestrian since they have a rounder toe and a boxier fit, but they expose the same refined macho attitude.

The pants really impressed me since they appear to be slim fitting and youthful, but classical at the same time. Nevertheless, such characteristic is not present in all of them, obviously. For instance, there is a pair of black luster jeans which doesn’t present not a bit of a classic thing.

Detailing happens to be one of Taomaki’s key ingredients as they add character and style to a collection conceived using only a somehow obscure palette. I believe that the most representative item would be the half cape half jacket coat, which doesn’t look like anything we usually see on mainstream fashion, since it portrays everything the Viridi-anne stands for.

Each week, not to say each day, I complain about how we sometimes don’t know a thing about certain designers or countries in general. But I believe I’m right. There are several talented fashion designers somewhere waiting to be found, and there are others who are extremely experienced but seem newcomers to our ignorant minds. One of them is Damir Doma.

He was born in Croatia, a country we rarely speak about. He is remarkably talented and presents an ingenious and captive aesthetic. For his spring-summer 08 line, Damir mixes grunge with androgynous looks but avoids creating a feminine silhouette what so ever. He evokes an unusual type of androgyny, much masculine and less “shocking”.

The rotten greenish leggings appear as a much iconic item since they represent the collision between femininity and masculinity. On one hand, you have a very typical female piece; and on the other hand, you have a masculine color usually associated with war which emphasizes the fact that the leggings are full of cuts and a wild vibe.

On his latest line, Damir presents diverse layered looks which depict an ordinary looking young kid being different and inventive. I believe that Damir did a great job by choosing light fabrics and combining them in order to get structured outfits and a complex look.

We all wonder who are going to be the “big names” of tomorrow. We might have certain clues and ideas about who may become a “heavy-hitter” in the future, and we might as well presume that we are sure about who are definitively not going to be fashion royalty; but the truth is that such thing is awfully hard to tell.

As I begin thinking about the different possible candidates, I can not avoid remembering a recent article I read in which a renamed fashion socialite effortlessly told the magazine that he was completely sure about who was going to be the next “big” designer: Alexandre Herchcovitch.

He is Brazilian and loaded with talent. He is creative, but not savvy; yet he delights the posh audiences both in Sao Paolo and New York. Alexandre schedule is different that most designers since he works according the Brazilian calendar. Nevertheless, he manages to innovate day after day and freshens every show he ever attends to.

His latest women’s wear spring-summer collection is something different to what we are accustomed to. And that’s one of the best thing Alexandre has to offer. He portrays very individual and original concepts that are rarely found among Europeans and North American designers. For instance, last season Alexandre drew his inspiration from the highly resourceful manner in which the indigent plantation and mine workers of his native Brazil dress themselves.

For spring 08 Alexandre presents an eccentric aesthetic that mixes candid skirts and high-waisted with artsy evening dresses. I believe that the way in which Alexandre depicts the female figure is what led him to be successful, because is impressive how he manages to make models look good while wearing very hard to pull off garments. This season his designs are either minimalist or “eclectic”. Meaning the collection is composed by very “simple” items as well as wacky pieces - sort of like an artsy couture touch he decided to include.

Alexandre’s designs are among the best you’ll find this summer. But don’t exactly focus your attention in his ready-to-wear pieces, but on his swimwear items which literally will be flying off the shelves any time soon.