Italo Zucchelli

Calvin Klein, as a fashion house, has been trying over the last few seasons to polish its public image. Without a doubt, they have done a pretty nice job, but the one who deserves all the credit is none other than Italo Zucchelli. Since Calvin Klein Collection is the high-end facet of the firm, and it’s the one the industry socialites and buyers focus their eyes on, it’s of major importance how good its runways shows are. Luckily for Calvin Klein, Italo has presented outstanding menswear collections over the last few seasons. The very last one, exposed a radical change on Calvin Klein’s image. Slim cuts, candid colors, and Lycra tights were among the amusing garments that dazzled the eye of those who had the privilege to watch as those superb elaborations graced the runway.

As evidenced by how much speculation there was as soon they announced the date and place on which Calvin’s show would be held on, everyone was expecting too be amused once again by Italo - and they sure were. This time it wasn’t the fabrics nor the cuts that draw the attention of enthusiastic spectators, but the concept behind the collection was responsible for causing quite a mental stir on many. You may wonder why or how he managed to do such thing, and the answer is that he designed a menswear line on which the labels classic aesthetic mixed with a very relaxed sporty looked without looking “ridiculous”.

The idea of movement, was so incredibly present that by just seeing them you wanted to hit the gym or grab a bike. From my perspective, the essential ingredients for achieving such concept were the short shorts, the lycra and, above all, the relaxed Miami attitude the models vastly oozed. In addition, I believe that the hairdos played a very important part, since these were responsible for much of that “attitude” portrayed by Italo thru the models.

As CFDA time approaches, I feel obliged to support one of the nominated designers for the menswear award - Italo Zucchelli is my choice.

Despite being an amazing designer, Ralph Lauren does not "fit", in my opinion, the contemporary fashion scene. He has built an empire; indeed a fashion empire, but with no true appreciation for art. His garments lack personality - the plaids, the khakis, worked fine decades ago and now they are just classic pieces with highs and lows like any other item. I totally accept the decision of naming him a "legendary" designer and I think that rewarding his vast career and profound experience is absolutely fabulous, but that's about it.

Italo Zucchelli has evolved enormously over the last few years - different from Alexandre Plokhov who received more hope and was kind of a disappointment. Having worked with for Jil Sander and Romeo Gigli, Italo has overcome the gigantic pressure of becoming the creative director of a multinational firm that grosses over $4 billion dollars annually and of a label that was almost artistically sunk.

The Italian born designer, captured a minimalist concept of fine garment crafting and elaborated a marvelous collection - that is definitively worth comparing with Raf Simons for Jil Sander work. Light colors and even lighter cuts, Italo gave birth to the modern silhouette of the working man. The epitome of high-end business attire relies on the magnificent concept of style Italo has. Yellow and blue compliment the gray, and the gray itself settles the basis for a structural, yet fresh collection.