Nicolas Andreas Taralis

As I was “checking out” the new spring collections a few days ago, I was surprised by the re-appearance of Cerruti. I couldn’t figure out why this “forgotten” designer label was receiving a great deal of media attention - completely clueless. But the mystery suddenly vanished when I found out who was their main designer: Nicolas Andreas Taralis.

So just like we did with Kris Van Ascche, prior to his Dior collection being exhibited - forecasting how the new Dior aesthetic would be - Nicolas’ new, and officially first, menswear line should be analyzed as if it were a representation of how Dior would have looked if he was chosen to replace Hedi.

It’s the only collection that looks more like Dior Homme than Dior Homme. Hedi’s usual outfits such as the black skinny pants worn with a black leather jacket, a white shirt and black skinny tie are very present on Nicolas’ line. In addition, a heavy androgynous mood reigns his aesthetic, therefore exposing a lot of transparencies. His work at Dior would have only continued with what Hedi did up to the Fall 2007 runway show. I always thought that Nicolas should definitely be the one to replace Hedi, but now I see that if so the label’s image would have completely stuck.

Although the are some nice outfits, like the ones shown above, Nicolas’ line is definitely not good. It’s a bad representation - not to say copy - of what Hedi was doing seasons ago. I think he took his influences very deeply, and that did not benefit him in any way. Although I strongly believe that the only way possible for Dior to continue with its marvelous lines was under Hedi’s “command”, I think that what Dior needs now is a mixture between Kris Van Assche and Nicolas Andreas Taralis, with an additional structured avant-garde vibe.

Dior Homme needs to move on. Style uniformity is not an option.

What would have happened to Dior Homme if only Nicolas Andreas Taralis, had been selected to replace Hedi Slimane instead of kris van assche? Is a question that many fashionistas ask, but very few are able to respond. Nicolas, as well as kris van assche, worked hand-by-hand with Hedi. Nevertheless, his amusing conception of male aesthetics outgrows by far whatever creation kris van assche may offer to Dior Homme.

There is clear consensus between those who deeply appreciate the "heroin chic" aesthetic Hedi Slimane marvelously developed: Dior's decision to select kris van assche as its creative director only proves the vast desire of the renamed French fashion house to elaborate more profitable collections - In a need to widen their market, the kris van assche style was embraced.

Having studied in the University of Applied Arts in Vienna, under the tuition of one of the most successful designers the fashion world has seen in the last few decades, Nicolas got to work with Hedi Slimane after a relatively short time and with no effort what so ever. By working with Hedi side by side, he learned to appreciate the entire concept of slimness and freshness. The love for the obscure and the androgynous also became a part of Nicolas's taste - he soon begun elaborating a collection the would became the femme version of Dior Homme.

Tons of ovations he received, as well as the support from magazines such as Vogue and W, and he caused quite a stir in the fashion scene. He was completely ready to unleash his talent as the designer in chief at Dior. With kris van assche is more of the same; he will create a poor symbiosis of what he has done at his label and what is left behind of Hedi. The avant-garde style that Slimane had shown at Paris this year, criticized by many, won't stand a chance under kris van assche's supervision. With Nicolas, it would have been so much different:a darker palette would have prevailed; the concept of Dior Homme as the label worn but the hip boys would have stayed; and, most important, in a way or another, it would have given him the chance to shine.

Further this year, the first collection by kris van assche will be presented. We sincerely hope that it causes quite a fashion commotion and that he choses another theme rather than hearts for his first line. I pray that I'm mistaken, that their is still a chance to embrace Hedi's avant-garde taste for menswear fashion, but facts prove exactly the opposite.

Nowadays, in a little atelier, works the man who could have sustained the artistic movement that will be remembered for decades to come...(so much drama)

Photo Courtesy: Sonny Vandevelde for a Diane, a shaded view of fashion.