Interviews

His name is Richard Söderberg. He is a talented young designer from Sweden whose label is called Obscure. He designs finely crafted pieces using a simple dark color palette and tons of creativity.

What have you been up to recently?

Well, I've been sowing my new collection and hooking up with my factory. Also I’m moving on Saturday, so I have much to do.

Working hard I see. Where are you moving?

I’m moving to Stockholm.

Splendid, where are you currently based? Are you actually working on the spring 08 line or have you begin doing some of the fall pieces?

I’m based in Helsingborg, a little city in southern Sweden. I recently finished SS, so I’m having a break.

A very deserved one I presume.

Actually, the SS collection wasn't that hard work. It's mostly random pieces I've put together into a collection. AW08 is going to be much more serious.

More profound, meaning that it will be expose a complex ideology, or more serious regarding the technical construction?

Well, I have tried to work towards something a bit more wearable. I'm putting more effort into every garment and at the same time trying to see the whole. I mostly make dark clothes but I don't strengthen the image of darkness with my styling (at least I'm trying not to). And whenever I make a light collection I try to make it more dark through precise style changes. The technical construction is always in development. I feel I'm in constant development and the more I work with different fabrics the more I get to know them and can use their full potential.

So you'll stop doing some of the very avant-garde stuff?

No, I’m trying to mix the avant-garde with wearable. Or that is what I will try and search for. The SS collection wasn’t very avant-garde, at all, but when I have more time and more effort to put into the collection, that is my goal.

And that's the key for successful line I believe. Are you afraid that someone might criticize you for doing a more approachable collection? Meaning that some may say that you will be becoming more commercial.

Indeed. As long as I am pleased with a collection, I never mind.

What happened to your first label "Macabre"? Why did you start doing Obscur?

Macabre and Obscur are the same thing. I just decided to stop using the name "Macabre" because it's just too "hard". It means death in all kinds of ways; so it feels kind of harsh, doesn't it?

Exactly. And how do you deal with the fact that many people compare you with Ann Demeulemeester?

I get that. I am very influenced by Ann d, Number 9, Rick Owens and so, but I try to keep an individual spirit.

You are doing an amazing job so far

Thank you very much

Which are the most iconic pieces that you currently offer?

The leather jacket , boots and zip-up neck. I like the raw-ness of zippers a lot, when used correctly.

Oh the long boots right those are going to be HUGE in a few months time

However, that might very well change for my coming collection haha

Would you ever consider designing other jeans than the skinny ones?

Of course. As I said this collection wasn’t super-serious. Therefore I didn't had the time nor energy to make more pants. The focus was kind of off pants. I don't think I will ever produce the typical blue-jeans, but who knows really. The jeans I like right now is a bit low crotch, baggy loose material . I love working with natural fabrics because they age and get their own personality.

I see. What things are going to change next season? Will start doing a full accessories line any time soon?

The next season will be more dressed; I try to make more and more accessories and i realize the importance of such…There will be a lot of blazers and trench coats. I'm going to try and add the rawness I’m talking about.

Excellent; so no printed t-shirts haha

haha maybe for stores but not official.

Well, I want to see the fall sketches as soon as you have any.

I’m also going to try and create more technical garments, for shows

So you will be doing more artsy runway shows or not?

Runway shows takes ALOT of work and right now I’m on my own. so not yet

Where is your market mainly located at?

Do you mean where I sell or where I’m aiming at?

Both

I'm not selling anywhere at the moment because I recently got my factory working, and I didn't want to sell "home-made" stuff. The aim is Japan, Europe eastern US, mainly small specialized stores. More exactly, do I think it will take time for me to have the ECONOMY to set up a good design team? The answer is yes, much time.

For more information and availability, go to http://www.obscur.se

or search within Frillr.com for previous entries about Obscur.

Sean William Salim is the designer behind baby-born label S2VS - a creative label with a bright future ahead.

So Sean, where are you currently living at?

I live at my studio. I have a bedroom, an office and a showroom.

Oh that's kinds cool I think, so would you consider yourself as a workaholic?

I jump straight to work, or if I have interns that day I'd take a shower first haha. I consider myself as a heavy worker, but not by choice. Work can’t finish itself…

Exactly. What are you currently working on? Fall 08 collection?

I’m currently trying to rescue Spring summer 08!, though I have fabric coming in for Fall 08.

Great, what types of fabric will you be working with? Because I loved what you did with that denim.

SWS: I have much more control this time, because I actually went to the fabric shows. I totally was late and unprepared for spring. I have a distressed silver denim coming in from Japan lots of knits that look like woven and almost no color!

Oh, nevertheless your collection was well put together for the time you had. I believe that knits are always an essential item when it comes to winter lines, and dark palettes compliment them extremely well.

Thank you. Yes there will be lots of knits!...The PR for the spring was a snowballing nightmare though which explains for the bad sales

So you are as well in the process of creating a good working team?

Yes. I've been flying solo and it did not work out. I am hiring a team for in-house sample and production in Indonesia

Intelligent move. So how did you came up with your spring designs?

1/4 of the styles came from my senior thesis at Parsons school of design! It's just a take on today's youth culture street and party, art and politics

Oh you are a Parsons graduate! What an honor haha

haha thanks

What artist are you influenced by?

Wow lots…Yayoi Kusama is amazing…well…I don't know who else to point out, I love bits and pieces of everyone, there's a little Brancusi in the collection (the gold pant)

Yep that’s right. Which items do you consider to be the essential pieces of your line? And why?

I believe that the gray and indigo button down shirts as well as the bomber jacket, which were all finished by hand, are key items in my latest collection.

Wow that's impressive. You definitively seem like a hard working man.

Yeah as do you ;-)

And I believe that nowadays that's truly valuable, don't you think? How long do you think it will take for you to create your ideal label?

I hope to nail it right with the launch of fall 08, But for it to generate any income and be considered 100% successful, it could take 3 years.

Well that's fashion and if you are able to establish a successful business in three years you are definitively going to become even bigger
Indeed.

Do you think that you will have included shoes and/or an accessories line by that time?

Well, I would love to get into accessories. We will cross our fingers for fall/winter…I mean, I already have ideas for gloves and shoes, hats and scarves.

Do you have any other plans that you would like to do in the near future?

I am thinking of tapping into women's, or a different and much more mass produced label for department stores

That's a very astute work plan

Yeah, I definitely have expansion plans in mind already, but again, it depends on the new team I will be getting.

How big do you think it will be?

I'm targeting 7. But keep in mind this is Indonesia, and it's only production team. Over here, I will have to use showrooms and PR firms.

Exactly, that's a pretty good team I think. Will you continue designing skinny jeans?

Yes and no

When do you think you will stop?

I think the skinny style is getting old, but it does look good on (some) people. I am going to do other styles on top of the skinny

I feel the same way…for instance?

Well, you can only do so much with men's jeans; you can do a straight cut and…that’s it…I really won't be doing much else

But you'll keep slim fits anyway right?

Yeah, my ideal customer is younger. It's that body type. 18-28 or so

[Silence. We don’t say a word]

I was just thinking the other day... I really need to contact Teen Vogue! I heard they're genius actually.

Haha you definitively should!

It's weird because I've had responses so far...that's labeled me as Raf…or Jeremy Scott, or Material boy and bunch of others...and guess what? I am all of them - how'd you like that? ;-)

His Raf by Raf Simons line had a similar aesthetic (in general) and Material Boy also aims to the young customers.

I don't think it's bad that I embody some of their visions.

Not at all, they are great representatives of today's youth, but I believe that your label is more urban.

Yeah. And then now they're going to label me next to an urban designer...lol that's how the market is…they judge. But there's nothing I can do about it :-)

Haha I know that's why I seriously think that you should always include a piece or two of really avant-garde styles

Yeah...
I have to take you out for lunch when you get back
Would love to talk fashion in person

Haha we definitively should

And so the interview ends and we arrange future plans.

For information and availability, go to www.s2vs.com

It’s midday, I send an email to Adam. He is in New York and I’m in Argentina - we are very far apart. I’m working, he is working. We are both workaholics.

A few minutes go by and he replies. We are finally ready to start the interview.

Adam Spagnolo is his name and I wrote an entry about his fall menswear line very recently. His work features masculine, yet finely tailored pieces. He aspires to satisfy every men’s fashion necessity - specially those which include dressing up.

And so the interview begins.

Adam, let me start by saying we are thrilled to have you here. Tell me a bit of where you are right now and how is an ordinary day of yours. Does your life currently revolve around fashion? I mean would you define yourself as a total workaholic

Today, like most days, I was up very early working on my line. Doing what I can to get my name out there. Ordinarily my thoughts are thoroughly focused on developing my label. To say that my life revolves around fashion is an understatement. My life is fashion. It's what motivates me. Workaholic? Yes.

And that's the key for creating a successful line I believe. How long do you think it will take you to construct your ideal company?

In five years, I hope I've obtained a few things. I want a strong reputation, I of course want to be in business and if I'm lucky I'll have a team that enjoys working with me. That would be ideal.

Beyond that, and I think most designers would agree, this is something I want to do for the rest of my life. In an industry that's constantly changing, ideally you will adapt and move forward

I must admit Adam, that you are heavily loaded with passion. It’s amazing how you manage to transmit your emotions, it's delightful to hear you. And do you see yourself designing several lines including an accessories collection and others by that time?

That would be nice, but I can't get ahead of myself. First, I need sales. That's what is important to me right now.

Intelligent move. So you say that men are looking for a way to dress up without relying on old guard ideas; what things have led you to believe that?

That comes from two things. It's both a reflection of my personal taste and also a reflection of where the market is going. For young guys my age, lately they've been stuck wearing t-shirts and jeans. Especially in cities like New York, where dress codes at work are much more lax, it's easy to fall into that rut. Fortunately for menswear, there's a crop of highly talented young designers who are reinterpreting what it means to dress up. I, myself, have always loved a good suit and embrace the opportunity to recreate what has long been the backbone of a man's wardrobe.

That's very true; I mean New York has lately been missing that sartorial flavor

Your line is very masculine yet youthful; what elements do you believe to be essential when trying to evoke your fashion principles?

Absolutely my silk fly front. Yes, it's masculine and youthful, but it's also so much more. It's so versatile. I could easily fit that item into so many different types of wardrobes. Typically my look changes drastically from season to season, and having an item like that just eases the transition.It makes things easier. Dare I say, it becomes a bit of a signature.

Superb, silk is an extraordinary fabric. Which designers or artists are you influenced by?

My inspiration never comes from just one source, I just pay attention to what's in front of me and look for ways to incorporate.

Have you already started working for your fall 08 collection? Which pieces, styles or colors do you think that will be essential next season?

I have started sketching my next collection, but I'm not giving anything away just yet. You'll just have to wait and see haha

Is there anything in particular that you would like say about yourself regarding your work?

I'm self taught, and very fortunate that I've met people who are willing to help me along the way.

For more information and availability, go to www.adamspagnolo.com